Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.
This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.
“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.
The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.
Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.
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